The Weekend Travelogue: Quebec City

Nothing pleases friends better than gifts of Quebec maple products – the province is the biggest producer worldwide of the liquid gold. Délices Érable & Cie offers 60 maple products. The syrup is my number one choice, but for those hard-to-buy-for pals, pick up some maple pork seasoning, maple butter, maple cookies, candy or even maple coffee.

Quebecois whose ancestry is purely French-Canadian like to call themselves “pure laine,” meaning pure wool. This probably comes from the fact that farmers in the 1700s used to raise sheep for wool. Charlevoix Pure Laine is a wonderful shop bulging with handmade wool hats, socks, and sweaters from the Charlevoix region northeast of Quebec City. If you are a knitter, they also sell lovely skeins of wool.

No trip to Quebec City is complete without a trip to Simons, a department store in Upper Town that has unique designs for men and women (and fantastic sales!). There are now locations out West, in Ontario and across Quebec, but the Quebec City location is the original with its doors first opening in 1870.

In the excitement of shopping, I can forget to give my feet a break. But when they start to throb, it’s time kick back and refuel with caffeine. Cantook has a warm, wood exterior and offers many fair-trade coffee varieties. The beans are roasted in-house and custom ground for your cup. One of my favourites is the smooth, rich Ethiopian pour-over. Another appealing java stop is Maelstrom, famous for its high octane, nitro cold brewed coffee. Located in trendy Saint-Roch borough, the café’s decor has an industrial vibe and after the sun goes down the menu switches from caffeine to cocktails.

Massages, saunas, and a hot-cold-rest thermal experience can put me on cloud nine, especially when on vacation. Exploring a little off the beaten tourist path, I discovered SKYSPA on the 17th floor of a building on Boulevard Laurier, minutes from downtown. It was an urban oasis, with an outdoor hot tub, Nordic (i.e. cold) waterfall, sauna and steam room. After sweating out toxins in the sauna, plunge briefly under the chilly waterfall, then lay on a lounge chair to recover. Then do it all over again. Although it seems a bit challenging, the results are worth it – relaxing and revitalizing. If you need a pick-me-up, there are healthy snacks – fruit, nuts and cheese (as well as wine and beer) in the spa’s little bistro.

For a last-minute manicure in Vieux-Québec before a big night out, pop into the posh Moment Spa at Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac (but be warned, they can get busy). What better place to get the royal mani-treatment, with skin-softening hot wax, than at the city’s “Castle on the Hill”?

Feeling a tad peckish and thirsty? Time to check out L’Atelier’s crafted cocktails, tartares and tapas. The Emoji, with ruby red Absolut vodka, lime, aloe, white raisins and basil, really put a smile on my face, although I was tempted to try the Desert Eagle #2 with tequila, brand, agave, lime, lemonade cucumber, coriander and habanero chilli. Of all the tartares, from bison to tuna, the salmon was a real winner and I had to stop myself from ordering another. Homemade terrine and six oysters completed the snack.

Picking a place for the main meal event can be difficult in this gastro-intense city. My vote goes to L’affaire est Ketchup. This place is tiny, only eight tables, so you need a reservation, especially since it got the nod from Anthony Bourdain a few years ago. The menu changes nightly and dishes could include duck breast, braised beef cheek or tourtière (traditional French Canadian meat pie). The service was super friendly and there was nothing formal about it. My server, dressed in a t-shirt and baseball cap, read out the menu and I chose the Magret de Canard. The duck breast was juicy, medium rare, and with a thin, crispy layer of skin on top. Melt-in-your-mouth perfection.

On another night, I tried Toast!, a tasty spot located in Hotel Le Priori. The seared foie gras appetizer was heavenly and rich, while the main of veal sirloin with mushroom, sage and truffle veal jus was pure comfort food. I ended the adventure with a plate of outstanding Quebec cheeses, including slices of soft, buttery La Sauvagine, Le Cendrillon, an ash-covered goat cheese, and firm, nutty Pacific Rock.

For me, rich food calories are fuel for the dance floor. Dagobert nightclub, with a turreted, castle-like exterior, draws a youthful crowd and rocks with three floors of music. The first floor had a loud local band and the second and third featured celebrity DJs. Flashy light shows, TVs and video games helped amp up the energy.

Go to Le Drague Cabaret Club and you’ll find a gay dance club with loads of heart and ample servings of delicious camp. Drag queens reign supreme during the cabaret shows, DJs get the crowd dancing and on karaoke night you can try out that Beyoncé tune you’ve been practicing.

At the end of the night, Bistrot le Pape Georges (in a house built in 1668) is a good choice. Stick-to-the-ribs stew, soups, charcuterie and Québec cheeses are served until 3 a.m. Another option is Chez Ashton, because what visit to Quebec is complete without poutine? The variations to choose from include combos that pair classic fries, cheese curds and gravy with sausage, minced meat, or peas and chicken, all served until 4 a.m. on weekends.